Tuesday, September 26, 2017

Travels

Throughout the year, my PCVL position gave me a good opportunity to travel around Ghana and visit various volunteer sites in Brong Ahafo, Eastern, Western and Ashanti regions. Our main job is to find a good site for health, education or agriculture volunteer, talk with a community about expectations and inspect the housing. We would meet with school headmasters, chiefs, nurses, students and farmers.

Kwahu Mountains in the distance.

Afram Plains.

We would wake up early in the morning to use bumpy bush roads among cashew groves or go on the top of the Kwahu mountains. We even went to my village where I happily discovered that people still remembered me.

Uncle Sam chatting up a counterpart.

We took a smoky ferry to a remote Afram Plains area, and stayed at seedy hotels where the only things that matched were my pair of shoes. We drove through scary rains and during glorious sunsets.

It's coming!


Rain and logs - double jeopardy.

We would eat fufu and bread-and-egg sandwiches at chop bars (a canteen, which is just a wooden shack on the road), took schnapps with village chiefs and danced with a group of Ivorian refugees.

Chop bar

Local church.


Ooops -- this happens a lot.

Street sellers in a traffic jam.

"Be Nice to Me" spot -- love the name.

Tractor peeps giving directions.

Breakfast on the road -- kosi bean cakes.

An inquiring look.

Play ping pong!

Everywhere we went, people helped us to get around, and asked me to talk to them in Twi. I am not fluent by any means but I can actually tell them a bit about their future volunteer – that it can be anybody – “bebya”: a man or a woman, tall or short, young or old, shy or confident. A volunteer may like to eat fufu or not, they may want to fetch water by themselves or ask for help, and they may or may not know the local language well. A volunteer may also tell about America – not the America from movies and music videos, but the America of their family, home town and state. Their America may be hot or cold, urban or rural, religious or non-religious, stressful or relaxing.

Our stalwart driver Aikens in front of Bui dam.

A volunteer's kitchen.


Once we got a live turkey as a thank-you gift! It is now living in our compound in lieu of a peacock.

Below are some random pictures from different villages I visited.

Shade is essential during the dry season.

Teachers' lounge.

Chief's entrance.

Fish market.

Talking about Peace Corps.


If you look closely, the saying on this tro is "Control your mouth." :))
A successful talk

Biking and moto-ing.

This volunteer extended!

Mosquito net - an important part of a housing decor.

Our brave car taking a break.

Dancing with Ivorians between site visits.

Drumming

At an opening of an ICT lab.

Z and his counterpart.

Going, going, gone...

Habits

Well, well, well – looks like my time in Ghana finally comes to an end! I have been here nearly 3 years, and in about 3 months I will be wrapping up my service. This is all very exciting, scary, overwhelming and cathartic. I have a lot of thoughts and ideas of what to do next, lists of things I will and will not miss, and so on. One question I was particularly pondering on --- what habits will I retain after I leave Ghana?

Eating with my hands: when I was little eating with my hands was impolite and un-cultured – a real lady always used a fork. While in US, I discovered the finger-food culture --- french fries, sandwiches, chicken strips, quesadillas…. But never in my life have I thought I could learn to eat a hot soup with my hand (and enjoy it). But I did. I also learned to love fufu – a staple of Ghanaian cuisine. You either love it or hate it. I like everything about it – the feeling of fullness, the dipping of fufu morsel into a flavorful savory soup, the chewing of a goat skin. And that comes from a girl who came to Ghana during the Ebola scare who sanitized everything in her path and who was a glorified vegetarian... So, the habit of eating food with my hands (or better say, my palms) will stick around for a bit. I can already see myself immersing my palm into a bowl of salsa at a party and getting weird looks. Kafra (sorry)!

Finger-licking good.


Two-yard state of mind: while packing for Ghana, I was thinking ‘camping’. Swiss army knife, quick-dry towel, sturdy boots, travel-sized shampoos, Nalgene bottle and anything I laid my eyes on at REI and EasternMntSports were neatly packed in my orange duffel bag. Turns out most of things I could be lived completely without (or find a cheap alternative through recycling and reusing). If during my first 6 months I would take with me most of my gear to any tro trip (including toilet paper, Imodium, Crystal light packets), now it is literally just a two-yard, a toothbrush and change of clothes. Even before Ghana I was a light packer and a wanna-be minimalist, but the two-yard concept pushed me even more towards a no-stuff paradigm.

A two-yard is a just that – a two-yard piece of bright calico clothing that is sold everywhere. Women wrap babies with it, men use it as a towel and a shower curtain when they take a morning bath. It is turned into beautiful dresses and shirts by numerous tailors and dressmakers. I was given a two-yard by my home-stay mother almost immediately after I moved in (along with Charlie-watsies and a bar of soap – my welcome gifts). People use it when it is chilly in the evening, or raining, or too hot or dusty. Gradually it becomes your essential tool for living.

Two yards galore.

I wrap myself in a two yard at least twice a day --- in the morning and at night. It is my towel, my pajamas, and my yoga mat. I know that I will continue to use it in US, at least in the summer time. I will also continue the light packing idea ---- even as a Peace Corps volunteer without too much stuff I still felt I have too many things. My Swiss army knife will definitely find a new home.

Usage of energy – physical, mental, emotional, social, monetary.... Peace Corps service is not easy sometimes, so you had to prioritize whether or not to worry or to care about certain things – within reason. For example, I used to worry what my fellow trainees would think of me. Or what the staff may say of my project idea, or whether or not I will get harassed at a taxi station. This frame of thinking is changing --- I know that I cannot do whatever I please but I at least don’t obsess about things that haven’t happened yet. As one PC person said – “Do things first, ask for forgiveness later.” As for harassment, I now can brush off unwanted attention without even raising an eyebrow (well, maybe with a flick of a hand as to swat a pesky mosquito). What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger – for sure.

A balancing act - hanging out with volunteers and non-volunteers.

I also know when to push myself physically. If the 1st year was pretty physically draining (training, farming, running a marathon), the next 2 years were more relaxing (especially the last one, when I could chill in an air-conditioned space and eat leftovers from the fridge, ha). I do keep myself active and healthy but not to the point of total exhaustion. I also socialize with volunteers but only when I want to --- I do not feel this constant need to be surrounded with people from similar backgrounds all the time, but I like the fact that I live at a regional office when anyone can come anytime and keep me company.

The usage of energy became like a debit-credit system, a compensation for complete or incomplete actions: if I hike for several hours then I can also have a big meal. If I veg out all day – well, at least I can do some paperwork or listen to podcast. Ghana made me a budgeter ---- which brings memories of post-Soviet Kazakhstan when we could save several kopeks and choose – whether to go to a movie or buy a Snickers bar, or when our mom asked us to eat only half of a cutlet (because the other half could be used the next day, of course).I thought I was good with money here until I ran out and had to go into the bush to forage for food…

Overall, when I am back, I will continue to enjoy group jogs, hiking outdoors, biking, dining out, open mics and other things I’ve missed. But I think I will also be ok with…nothing. Nothing is happening tonight? That’s ok. Because something will happen tomorrow, and the balance of energy will come back.

Be an even-keeled chicken.