Well, it’s time for another
status/life update. I’ve been reading blog posts of newly arrived volunteers
and felt a bit guilty to not post something every month (or even week) like
they do. But, that’s what happens when you’re eased into daily life anywhere
you go (even in Africa!) --- things stop seeming that exciting and new, you
just kind of live here. Even seeing something crazy (like people whose entire
bodies are painted like flags of local political parties or a burnt shell of a
VIP bus on the side of the highway) are not worthy a diary entry but simply a
shrug (or a gasp).
For the last five months I’ve been living in the city of Kumasi.
Let’s just say that it is not the most favorite city in Ghana, at least for volunteers.
It’s confusing to get around, its dirty, tro tro mates and sellers grab you
everywhere. Every time I traveled through there when I lived in the village I
felt harassed, dirty and tired. But now I live in a little oasis called KSO
which I fell in love with since my first visit here back when I was a trainee.
“Kumasi” literally means “under a Kuma tree.” Legends say
that during the Ashanti Kingdom times a king decided to build a city wherever a
kuma seedling would survive and grow (he planted several). So, that’s why
Kumasi is where it is (which is conveniently right in the middle of Ashanti
Region, or Kingdom). Ironically, there is a town next to it under the name of Kumawu,
which literally means “a dead Kuma tree” – that is where the seedling did not
survive.
Kumasi is a big trading hub – all types of goods are brought
from the North and South; people break their travel to stay here. The infamous
Kejetia market is one of the biggest ones in West Africa. You do not want to go
there by yourself for the first time. But you can find anything there –
literally, especially famous kente cloth woven by local artisans, wax print
cloth and any second-hand clothing (even diving goggles). The city also has hundreds
of hotels and guest houses. And, of course, churches and mosques are rampant.
One of my local acquaintances told me: “This is what people in Kumasi do – they
trade and then they pray.”
So, as you can see, it is not a hub of style and night-life
like Accra or a land of NGOs like Tamale (which is still my favorite city in
Ghana). But slowly but surely I am finding my way around, navigating through
circles, markets and stores and find some “gems” along the way. For instance, I
found a great TJ Maxx-like shop which sells brand new clothing from Europe and
US for very reasonable prices. If I told you that I have just found fantastic
pair of ski pants for about 6 bucks there, would you believe me? Ha, but it’s
true! Another question, of course, is why ski pants are sold here in the first
place. But I’ll tell you – a lot of people drive motos here, and they use warm
jackets, pants and ski gloves to protect themselves.
I also found several trails to run and walk on, as well as
places to buy yogurt, Indian food and hummus. So, even though Kumasi is not on
everybody’s list, it’s growing on me.
Now, what am I doing here? Per previous post, I have been
promoted as a PCVL, and so now my life is very different. I literally work from
home and on the road. One day I may be at the house doing paperwork or reading
a book, and another day I may have to hop on a car and drive to pick up a sick
volunteer. I am literally on-call 24/7, like a 911 response. I have to be “on”
all the time – whether to answer a question, to reserve a bed for someone or to
buy a plane ticket for a medical emergency. Things are not as peaceful and
quiet as in Adu Pri, but I manage. Plus, the team here is great: Aikens the
driver is hilarious (the other day he pointed at a weird mural depicting a
chicken with a tie and a Bible saying: ‘Praise the Lord, and stop using me for
a fried rice!’); the guards are helpful and Uncle Sam who is a program
assistant is simply adorable. My current position is a strange combination of a
volunteer and staff duties. Sometimes I also feel like a mom…or at least
experience what every typical mom in America does every day – shopping, cleaning
and worrying. And delegating the tasks, of course J.
In short, over the past several months I’ve done the
following:
Successfully petitioned for and installed two brand new
toilets (not more weird algae thingy);
Got two new fans and a new fridge;
Fumigated the entire building;
Started an accidental garden (I planted beans but instead I got
pawpaw);
Visited sites for new and replacement volunteers to collect
data on housing, GPS coordinates, potential projects and safety issues;
Successfully removed a couple of volunteers from their
unsafe site and found a new one for them;
Met and greeted a new group of Ag trainees (such a weird
feeling, to see them and remember myself two years ago, fresh off the plane);
Found a place with a trivia night;
Reorganized the library;
Painted the TV room.
Sounds like a lot… but there is still plenty to do.
