Monday, October 27, 2014

The Unexpected Post

So, little less than one month passed since I arrived, and I’ve already been to….a local hospital. No worries – I’m all right! But apparently you cannot get away from your medical history, even in Africa…

It all started with infected bug bites and a memory of my five-year old self suffering from a blister on a left foot. We were on vacation, and my parents were a bit worried. When a doctor examined me, he found a weird lymph node abscess thing-y on my RIGHT leg. Anyway, being operated on in a scary-looking room full of strange contraptions, being given the smelly Vishenvskiy cream for a wound dressing, and being forced to stay in a hospital for several weeks (!)made me a bit weary of hospitals and doctors. And now almost the same freaking thing was happening in Africa! And the fact that I’m much older than five doesn't help the matter.

When I saw the same weird lymph-y thing (why? what? how?) in the gloom of my mosquito-netted room, I immediately told our PC doctors who were training us on STDs (another lovely topic that we are having a blast with). They took me to our main office in Accra to monitor me and send a request to Washington so they would know how to proceed with this ailment of mine. Dr. Sasha (who is Ukrainian, by the way) took me under his wing and explained the strenuous process of a PC medical procedure, which requires a confirmation from a main or regional PC medical center on the next steps. Because it was almost a weekend, we did not get any response for 2 days. It was not too bad, as I enjoyed my stay in Accra’s Osu expat neighborhood, where I slept in an air-conditioned room, bought lovely batik fabric and even sampled some cheese (a super-expensive treat!). Also, having free wi-fi sweetened the deal, and I could catch up on my correspondence (and post a couple of blog entries, yay).

The real fun started on Monday... Dr. Sasha took me to a local clinic where Dr. Wu (a Ghanaian with Chinese roots) examined me and promptly told us that she would like to perform a surgery right away. What?? I was honestly in shock. Then I was sent upstairs into an operating theatre (yikes!), where I was put into a contraption that only very pregnant women use when they are about to give birth. The army of nurses who kept calling me “Madame” poked and prodded until my leg became numb (I refused to be given a general anesthesia). Needless to say, the entire procedure was a bit traumatic: I felt like my own five-year-old self in a unfamiliar room full of scary machines and unfamiliar people in surgical masks, realizing that that my mom was not with me L. Even though the operation was over in about five minutes, I spent ten more minutes bawling in the bathroom to get rid of the shock and unpleasant memories. All is cool now, but some things can haunt you even decades after they are over…

To cheer me up, Dr. Sasha told me that it was a good thing I was not operated somewhere in Sierra Leone (thanks!). All in all, Ghana has modern facilities and great doctors (many of whom, by the way, were educated in Soviet Union!). Still, this episode put a dent on my rigorous training schedule as I’m missing tons of useful stuff. But my group misses me, and can’t wait for me to return – isn't it sweet? I’m planning to splurge and bring them cheese – they will definitely appreciate it!

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Akwaaba! (Welcome!)

Well, folks – I am in Africa! It has only been two weeks since our plane touched down at the Accra airport, but it already seems like a lifetime of impressions, sounds, sights, smells, noises and a choc’ful of other fun stuff. I am currently going through intensive language and technical training in the Eastern region of Ghana where every person greets you with the “How is your whole being?” question, and where schoolchildren and goats chill on steps of numerous churches.

But I’m getting ahead of myself. Here are my first impressions of Ghana:

1.       At the airport’s entry we were immediately taken temperature. So far, there has not been a case of Ebola here!

2.       We were driven to the Peace Corps office with a police escort to beat the Accra traffic! Mind you, this royal service only happens when a new batch of trainee arrives; for the rest of the week our drivers battled with numerous tro-tro drivers.

3.       Traffic is crazy. Not Boston-like crazy --- Moscow-kind-of-crazy! All post-Soviet peeps will understand me. Drivers make their own lanes, honk all the time and pick up more people than their lil' cars can fit. Also, tro-tro (the local version of a Russia marshrutka) rules. It is a mini-bus which can fit tons of people along with their kids, goats and merchandise.

4.       DO NOT use your left hand here! If you’re lefty (like me), you’re pretty much screwed. Pointing, greeting, and handing things with your left hand is extremely rude. So, it took some time getting used to this for me, semi-lefty. Good thing I write with the right (ha!) hand.

5.       Children (and people in general) are super-polite. They greet each other for hours, and are very helpful to us, Obronis (local name for foreigners, including white people). A lot of times local folks would chastise someone who tried to give us wrong change or dupe us in any other way.

6.       Ghana – the country of contrasts…. Just like any other developing place (like Kazakhstan), super-rich and super-progressive borders super-poor and super-traditional ways of life. After one week in Accra with its sky-scrapers and Star beer billboards, we were taken to our home stay families in a tiny village of Anyinasin (Eastern Region), where there is one paved road, three working street lights and tons of goats. People have cell phones there, but they wash themselves with bucket baths. FYI – I do enjoy bucket baths! They take minutes and save tons of water.

7.       Local food is delicious. I already tried and liked “red-red” (fried beans and plantains), banku (a ball of fermented corn dough), bofrut (a donut hole), groundnut (peanut) soup and fried tilapia. Oh, I also tried fu-fu, but I’ll tell you about it later. The families we are currently staying with, feed us A LOT. And they won’t hear “No, I’m very full” for an answer – they’ll just feed you more. I was surprised to discover that the food here is fairly spicy: the Ghanaians put a lot of “pepe” (hot pepper) in their sauces and soups. So far I eat my dishes on a mild side.

8.       HOWEVER….. there is no cheese around here! I am being deprived of cheddar, brie, mozzarella and gouda. So, if you’re reading this blog, please please please send me cheese. It won’t spoil, I’ll swear. And if you’re felling generous, please also send beer (Yingling , Shipyard Pumpkinhead or Harpoon, where art though?).

9.       I don’t want to end this post begging for food, so I’ll continue with more impressions. It is hot and humid in here! But it is fairly tolerable. There is even a slight chill early in the morning and a pleasant breeze in the afternoon. Also, it is a rainy season, so it rains almost every afternoon – so, if you have any laundry hanging on a clothesline (which is also washed and rinsed in the bucket), you better take it down J.

Friday, October 3, 2014

The Final Countdown!

Three more days till the Great African Adventure begins! On one hand I’m very calm, but on another….The last month has been like a whirlwind. I travelled to five countries, spent quality time with my wonderful mom and brothers, met old friends, made new ones, laughed, cried, swam in a beautiful Issik Kul Lake, walked around Istanbul, jammed with a whole bunch of Russians at the KSP music fest, saw wonderful art exhibitions, danced at Robyn/Royksopp's concert, drank as much pumpkin beer as I could, faced my hidden sorrows and fears, took tons of pictures, shopped til I dropped at Trader’s Joe (gimme some cookie butter! :)), jogged, breathed, meditated, thought things over…. Man, and I’m not even in Ghana yet!

I’m going there with a clear and open mind. I’m prepared for the worst but hoping for the best. I will miss Boston with its lovely foliage. I will miss you, my friends. Please write to me and send post cards, photographs and back issues of New Yorker and Sun. Oh, and care packages will always be welcome! Anything that you think I may enjoy reading, writing on, doing crafts with, learning from, or eating would be awesome. Here is a list of things that I know I will greatly appreciate:

·         Cheese
·         Beer
·         Cookie butter
·         Books (fiction, non-fiction, sci-fi, fantasy, Russian lit, British lit, humor, magical realism, anything that you read and liked and want to share with me)
·         DVDs (comedy, sci-fi, drama, documentary, rom-com, any movie with JJ Feild, Colin Firth, George Clooney or Harrison Ford)
·         Gold Fish
·         Dry hummus mix
·         Clif bars
·         Guitar strings
·         Song books
·         Duct tape
·         Hand sanitizer
·         Tea Tree shampoo and face wash
·         Post-its
·         Pens
·         Puzzles, riddles and board games

And here is my address for at least the first three months of training (October-December):

Anastasia Bannikova, PCT
Peace Corps Ghana
PO Box 5796
Accra North, Ghana
West Africa