Recently I have gone to Sao Tome, a small island nation on the
equator in the Gulf of Guinea. A simple 1.5 hour skip, hop, and jump from Accra
on the plane, and you are in a Portuguese-speaking fresh-seafood paradise.
Sao Tome and Principe islands
were originally uninhabited and were discovered by the Portuguese in the 15th
century during the Columbus era of sea voyaging. The islands were later
inhabited by the colonizers and slaves who were brought from the mainland Africa
(a Ghana connection -- Portuguese had a slave castle in what is now Central
Region, and the town, Elmina, is still around). It was also a good place to
ship all of the undesirables -- for instance, a large group Jewish children was
shipped there to fend for themselves. Sadly, almost all of them died. Later on,
when the coffee and cocoa plantations grew, servants from Angola were brought in
to till the land. The people and languages mixed together with time, and now
there is a distinct group of SanTomeans who love flowers, coffee and wine.
The colony gained independence
from Portugal in 1975, but its culture remained to be influenced by this small
sea-faring nation. The houses have intricately carved beams, all meals get
seasoned with vinegar and olive oil, and music is a gentle mix of Creole and
Portuguese tunes.
It is simply a treasure island, especially if you are a hungry and broke Peace
Corps volunteer.
Some observations and comparisons: people walk faster and wear less conservative clothes than Ghanaians. It is also quieter here, no booming speakers or street preachers. But men still whistle and hiss at you, yelling "Amiga!" or "Branca!"
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The south of the island is tropical lush forest, while the North is very Mediterranean looking. |
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Palm dance |
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Baobabs |
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Blue lagoon hill |
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Closer to the North |
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Coconuts everywhere |
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On the Equator line! |
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Main occupation is fishing. |
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A fortress, a light house and a bar. |
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Main faith -- Roman-Catholic |
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Sao Tome city harbor |
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The island is peppered with old abandoned buildings, factories, ships and farming equipment. |
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All taxis are yellow. |
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Santa Katarina tunnel. |
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Town of Neves |
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Selling pastries on Sunday |
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Boats are smaller |
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Our guesthouse Vila Marylin. Recommended! |
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Que bonita |
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