Kumasi, Kumasi, Kumasi….

Well, it’s time for another status/life update. I’ve been reading blog posts of newly arrived volunteers and felt a bit guilty to not post something every month (or even week) like they do. But, that’s what happens when you’re eased into daily life anywhere you go (even in Africa!) --- things stop seeming that exciting and new, you just kind of live here. Even seeing something crazy (like people whose entire bodies are painted like flags of local political parties or a burnt shell of a VIP bus on the side of the highway) are not worthy a diary entry but simply a shrug (or a gasp).

For the last five months I’ve been living in the city of Kumasi. Let’s just say that it is not the most favorite city in Ghana, at least for volunteers. It’s confusing to get around, its dirty, tro tro mates and sellers grab you everywhere. Every time I traveled through there when I lived in the village I felt harassed, dirty and tired. But now I live in a little oasis called KSO which I fell in love with since my first visit here back when I was a trainee.

“Kumasi” literally means “under a Kuma tree.” Legends say that during the Ashanti Kingdom times a king decided to build a city wherever a kuma seedling would survive and grow (he planted several). So, that’s why Kumasi is where it is (which is conveniently right in the middle of Ashanti Region, or Kingdom). Ironically, there is a town next to it under the name of Kumawu, which literally means “a dead Kuma tree” – that is where the seedling did not survive.

Kumasi is a big trading hub – all types of goods are brought from the North and South; people break their travel to stay here. The infamous Kejetia market is one of the biggest ones in West Africa. You do not want to go there by yourself for the first time. But you can find anything there – literally, especially famous kente cloth woven by local artisans, wax print cloth and any second-hand clothing (even diving goggles). The city also has hundreds of hotels and guest houses. And, of course, churches and mosques are rampant. One of my local acquaintances told me: “This is what people in Kumasi do – they trade and then they pray.”

So, as you can see, it is not a hub of style and night-life like Accra or a land of NGOs like Tamale (which is still my favorite city in Ghana). But slowly but surely I am finding my way around, navigating through circles, markets and stores and find some “gems” along the way. For instance, I found a great TJ Maxx-like shop which sells brand new clothing from Europe and US for very reasonable prices. If I told you that I have just found fantastic pair of ski pants for about 6 bucks there, would you believe me? Ha, but it’s true! Another question, of course, is why ski pants are sold here in the first place. But I’ll tell you – a lot of people drive motos here, and they use warm jackets, pants and ski gloves to protect themselves.

I also found several trails to run and walk on, as well as places to buy yogurt, Indian food and hummus. So, even though Kumasi is not on everybody’s list, it’s growing on me.

Now, what am I doing here? Per previous post, I have been promoted as a PCVL, and so now my life is very different. I literally work from home and on the road. One day I may be at the house doing paperwork or reading a book, and another day I may have to hop on a car and drive to pick up a sick volunteer. I am literally on-call 24/7, like a 911 response. I have to be “on” all the time – whether to answer a question, to reserve a bed for someone or to buy a plane ticket for a medical emergency. Things are not as peaceful and quiet as in Adu Pri, but I manage. Plus, the team here is great: Aikens the driver is hilarious (the other day he pointed at a weird mural depicting a chicken with a tie and a Bible saying: ‘Praise the Lord, and stop using me for a fried rice!’); the guards are helpful and Uncle Sam who is a program assistant is simply adorable. My current position is a strange combination of a volunteer and staff duties. Sometimes I also feel like a mom…or at least experience what every typical mom in America does every day – shopping, cleaning and worrying. And delegating the tasks, of course J.

In short, over the past several months I’ve done the following:

Successfully petitioned for and installed two brand new toilets (not more weird algae thingy);

Got two new fans and a new fridge;

Fumigated the entire building;

Started an accidental garden (I planted beans but instead I got pawpaw);

Visited sites for new and replacement volunteers to collect data on housing, GPS coordinates, potential projects and safety issues;

Successfully removed a couple of volunteers from their unsafe site and found a new one for them;

Met and greeted a new group of Ag trainees (such a weird feeling, to see them and remember myself two years ago, fresh off the plane);

Found a place with a trivia night;

Reorganized the library;

Painted the TV room.

Sounds like a lot… but there is still plenty to do.